Men's double-breasted blazer: complete guide to the perfect choice

The men's double-breasted blazer has fascinating military origins dating back to the 19th century. Its history is closely linked to the British Royal Navy. In 1837, a landmark event took place: the visit of the young Queen Victoria to the ship HMS Blazer. The ship's captain, keen to present his crew in the best possible light, had a special jacket made for the occasion. This jacket, cut from navy blue fabric and adorned with contrasting gold buttons, became the precursor of the double-breasted blazer we know today.

Queen Victoria was so impressed that she decreed this style of jacket would become the official uniform of the British Navy. Thus the classic Navy blazer was born, distinguished by its double-breasted cut and front buttons. This naval origin gave the double-breasted blazer an aura of prestige and formality that endures to this day.

Over the years, the double-breasted blazer has emancipated itself from its military context to conquer the male civilian wardrobe. Its evolution has been marked by a diversification of styles, colors and materials. Although the original blazer was exclusively navy blue, today there are models in a variety of shades, from beige to green, mauve and burgundy.

The fabrics used to make blazers have also diversified. Blazers can now be found in corduroy, smooth corduroy or textured hopsack fabric. This evolution has enabled the blazer to adapt to different contexts, from the most formal to the most casual.

Although often confused, the double-breasted blazer and suit jacket have some notable differences:

Cut: The blazer is generally cut looser than the suit jacket, allowing it to be worn comfortably over several layers of clothing.

Length: Blazers are often shorter than suit jackets, making them more practical and less bulky.

Structure: The blazer has a less structured construction at the shoulders and chest, giving it a more casual look.

Details: Blazers are often distinguished by more original details, such as a chest patch pocket, contrasting gold or silver buttons, or a small fabric tab on the collar.

Use: The blazer is more versatile and can be worn in a wider variety of contexts, while the suit jacket is generally reserved for more formal occasions.

This evolution and these differences have made the double-breasted blazer an essential part of the men's wardrobe, combining elegance and versatility.

The construction of a double-breasted blazer has a significant impact on its comfort and elegance. There are three types of construction:

Iron-on construction: This is the least expensive option, but also the least comfortable and the least durable.

Semi-foil construction: This offers good value for money, with a thin thermo-adhesive over the entire jacket and a flounced breastplate. Prices generally range from €3,000 to €5,000 (in the luxury segment).

Full interlining: This is the most comfortable and elegant construction, ensuring a natural fall. However, it's also the most expensive, with prices ranging from €7,000 to €10,000 (luxury blazer).

To check construction, the inner and outer fabrics at the bottom of the blazer can be pulled apart. The presence of a fabric between the two indicates complete interlining.

To choose the ideal cut for a men's double-breasted blazer, you need to pay attention to several details:

Shoulder break: This should be on the shoulder blade bone, with no visible folds.

Fit: The jacket should follow the shape of the body without being too tight. A slight tug at the closed button is considered elegant.

Length: The jacket should cover the buttocks by at least half. The button to close should be just above the navel.

Sleeves: Their length should be perfect, revealing part of the shirt cuffs.

Shoulders: Should be smooth and well defined.

For shorter men, we recommend jackets with a shorter hemline and smaller lapels. Taller men can opt for a longer jacket to balance their proportions.

The luxury of a tailored jacket remains the best option for achieving a perfectly tailored fit. However, whichever option you choose, a well-fitted double-breasted blazer can instantly enhance the look, while an ill-fitting jacket can spoil it.

The choice of fabric for a men's double-breasted blazer depends largely on the season. For summer, we recommend lightweight fibers such as cotton, linen or fiber blends. Linen, in particular, is appreciated for its freshness and breathability. It's worth noting that France is the leading producer of textile linen, making it an ecological and sustainable option.

For shoulder seasons like spring and autumn, a cotton blazer is an excellent option. In winter, flannel is particularly recommended for its warmth and comfort. Wool remains the material of choice for blazers all year round, thanks to its insulating properties and resistance to creasing.

For those looking for a luxury blazer, wool blends with cashmere, silk or even alpaca can offer superior texture and comfort. These blends are particularly suited to jackets worn on their own, offering an extra touch of elegance.

While navy blue remains a timeless classic for the double-breasted blazer, there are many other color options to consider. For those who already own a navy blue blazer, here are some interesting alternatives:

Anthracite grey

Beige

Brown

Bottle green

Bordeaux or lie-de-vin

Khaki or olive

It's important to note that the choice of color can influence the perception of the outfit. For example, a well-crafted gray jacket can soften bright colors and create an elegant contrast. For those wishing to take a bolder approach, a red blazer may be considered, although this requires a certain amount of self-confidence.

Patterns and textures can add an extra dimension to a double-breasted blazer. For those wishing to venture beyond plain fabrics, here are some options to consider:

Molten Prince of Wales: This classic pattern, particularly in shades of blue or gray, can add a subtle touch of elegance.

Window tiles: This pattern can be particularly flattering for tall men, adding substance to the silhouette.

Subtle textures: A simple texture can add interest to a blazer without being too bold.

Discreet patterns: Polka dots or fine checks can add a touch of sophistication without being too showy.

It's important to remember that the double-breasted blazer is already a bold piece in its own right. Therefore, it may be wise to start with more subtle patterns and textures before venturing into bolder options.

Ultimately, the choice of materials, colors and patterns for a double-breasted blazer depends largely on personal style and the context in which it will be worn. The key is to choose a piece that reflects your personality while remaining appropriate for the occasion.

The men's double-breasted blazer is distinguished by its distinctive buttoning system. The most classic is the "6 x 2", which allows all four bottom buttons to be fastened. The "6 x 1", on the other hand, allows only one button to be fastened, usually the bottom one, which has the effect of elongating the silhouette. There are also "4 x 1", "4 x 2" and "2 x 1" systems, often found on jackets with a more casual look.

It's important to note that one of the two columns of buttons is merely decorative, while the other is functional. To reinforce the closure, an inner button is usually attached to the lining on both sides.

Sleeve buttonholes are a crucial detail. They generally consist of one to four buttons. Some prefer "false holes" for aesthetic reasons, while others consider real buttonholes to be the hallmark of a bespoke suit. Historically, these buttonholes were used to roll up sleeves at work, hence the name "surgeon's sleeves".

Pockets play an important role in the aesthetics of the double-breasted blazer. Conventional side pockets are generally horizontal, one on each side, often with a flap. However, the absence of a flap can denote a dressier garment.

The ticket pocket, initially sporty and casual, has become a hallmark of English tailoring. Bias pockets, on the other hand, give a lively style, although they are historically associated with certain military uniforms.

Patch pockets can be considered for a more casual look. Two patch pockets at the bottom blend in well with the line of the double-breasted, putting its formal status into perspective.

The lapels are generally wider than on a straight jacket, measuring around 10 cm, with a pointed shape. A special feature of the double-breasted blazer is the buttonhole on each lapel.

The length of the double-breasted blazer is crucial. Ideally, it should fall between the middle and bottom of the buttocks. As for the sleeves, they should be about 1 cm shorter than the shirt. If they're too long, you can always have them altered.

Finishes play an important role in the blazer's overall appearance. Buttons should be solid and well-stitched, preferably in natural materials such as horn, mother-of-pearl or corozo. Two slits in the lower back are generally recommended for added comfort.

The Neapolitan shoulder, with very little padding, is often preferred for a less stuffy look. Finally, the choice of fabric is crucial: it's advisable to opt for quality natural materials such as cotton, wool, linen or silk.

The men's double-breasted blazer is an essential part of the men's wardrobe, combining elegance and versatility. Its rich history, distinctive cut and refined details make it a garment that has a considerable influence on a man's style. The judicious choice of silhouette, materials and colors creates a look that reflects personality while adapting to a variety of occasions.

Finally, mastering the subtleties of the double-breasted blazer, from buttons to finishing touches, is essential to achieving impeccable results. Whether for professional or casual wear, this guide offers the keys to selecting and wearing the perfect double-breasted blazer. With this knowledge, every man can approach his choice of double-breasted blazer with confidence, knowing he has the tools to create a look that's both elegant and personal.

Discover our other pages to find out more about the following topics:

- Made in France

- Made-to-measure suits Paris

- 3D pattern cutting on avatar